Ewen Buttress

Out again with Trace today, and after yesterdays gully climbing, including a pitch of ice, Trace was keen for getting some mileage on some harder mixed ground, so we headed in to Coire nan Lochain. We climbed Ewen Butress (III), but by a slightly different line up to the saddle. We spied a line that looked appealing, roughly straight up the crest, between the usual start and the direct start. It gave two fun pitches, with the first one having a steep bouldery crux to gain entry to the groove, which in the current conditions is probably around IV,6. 

Conditions were OK at the start of the day but things soon warmed up and by the time we were heading out the buttresses were looking black however the easier lines, with lots of ledges, were still holding onto some snow.

Trace enjoying the variation start

Trace enjoying the variation start

The very lean crux pitch of Ewen Buttress- there is some useful ice to help you over the upper step

The very lean crux pitch of Ewen Buttress- there is some useful ice to help you over the upper step

Trace get established over the upper step 

Trace get established over the upper step 

Coire nan Lochain on the walk out today

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Jacob Phillips

Onwards & Upwards specialise in providing instruction, guiding and coaching in climbing, mountaineering and walking. We tailor every course to your own specific needs and aspirations whether that be your first steps in the mountains, climbing your first trad route or tackling your first ice climb.